For NYFW SS23, I saw some beautiful designs, spotted some high profile celebs, and chatted with some friendly faces. However, the biggest thing I noticed was the lack of body inclusivity this season. It felt like such a dramatic backslide compared to the last few years and it’s incredibly frustrating. Chatting with other writers and creators in the body positive space totally validated everything I was feeling. We’re all SO tired of inclusivity being a passing trend. Out of the 8 runway shows and presentations I attended, only two featured plus models. I can love a designer or a garment all I want, but if I can’t see myself or see other women like me in it, then honestly what’s the point?
This season for New York Fashion Week some of my friends decided not to go. And tbh, I almost didn’t go either. As I mentioned, a lot of us are fed up with the lack of plus size bodies, racial diversity, and just the overall elitist vibe that is engrained in Fashion Week. Sure, some seasons there’s a new “record” of plus models on the runway. But let’s be honest, it’s 99% of the time going to be the same models who have sharp jawlines and hourglass figures. And the few brands that are truly inclusive every year are the same few that actually sell clothes to a diverse clientele year round.
So why did I still decide to attend NYFW? I’ll tell you. Because there’s not enough people like me in these spaces. Black, plus size, less than 10k followers, and can’t afford a head to toe designer look. I’ve been attending shows since 2017, I’m an accomplished blogger and a senior editor at a major publication. Yet, I still have so much imposters syndrome! I still feel like shit when a runway has zero plus models, or a street style photographer ignores me for 50 mediocre skinny girls, or an event tells me the free gift is only for “certain people.”
NYFW can be fun and I LOVE the fashion, don’t get me wrong. This was a dream I had for years! But is it inclusive? Nah. Is it welcoming? Nope. Would I love to help change that? YES BIH! So this season I wanted to commit to keeping it REAL with y’all. No more sugar coating an industry that thrives off of making people feel less than.
With all that said, here’s a look at everything I attended and my thoughts on each collection. As I already mentioned, most of the clothing was beautiful and I know I’m fortunate to be in the position to attend. But, I did call out how diverse the runways were for each show I went to.
Kate Spade SS23 Presentation
The Kate Spade presentation took place on one of the top floors of the World Trade Center. The balloon cloud displays with amazing views of the NYC skyline as the backdrop was beautifully thought out and amazing to experience in person. The models wore vibrant dresses, skirts, and blazers. The pieces felt very “young professional” and I could see many women wearing these items to work, Happy Hour, or even on vacation. Overall, the concept and execution was flawless, as one would probably expect from such an iconic brand. I even crossed paths with some of the celebrity brand ambassadors: Regina Hall, Rebel Wilson, Ziwe Fumudoh, Dylan Mulvaney, Ava Phillippe, Maitreyi Ramakrishnan, and Ella Bleu Travolta.
As far as diversity goes, the presentation did feature Black models (including darker skin tones) and Asian models. However, there were no plus models.
MCM Lounge
The luxury accessory brand MCM hosted a lounge where creators and editors could hang out between fashion shows. They had photo stations, a juice and healthy snacks bar, a DJ, and they were offering manicures. The set up was super cute and they were promoting their new fragrance, Ultra (which does smell amazing).
There was a bit of drama, but it has since been resolved. Basically, I was told if I came to the lounge I would receive a “special MCM bag” and the new fragrance. As someone who has never owned an MCM bag (which is what they’re known for), I was super excited and made sure I arrived early. Although I was one of the first to arrive, the PR girls told me I didn’t actually get a bag, I just got the perfume, although I saw them hand bags to other influencers right in front of me. This made me feel embarrassed and unimportant, so I spoke up about it in an Instagram caption. I honestly didn’t think anything would come from it, but the brand reached out to me to apologize. The apology felt sincere and they since sent me the bag I was originally supposed to receive.
Looking back, I know it can seem a bit silly to complain about a free bag, however it was more so the fact that as a fat, Black woman with less than 10k followers I’ve gotten really tired of feeling “less than” as NYFW — as you can probably tell from my intro. As someone who has worked in both journalism and fashion for more than six years, I just want to be treated with the respect I deserve. That said, MCM did work hard to resolve the issue and I don’t have any negative feelings towards the brand — it seemed to be more of a “misunderstanding” (I guess we’ll call it that) on the PR company’s side of things.
L’agence SS23 Presentation
L’agence is a California-based label that was founded in 2008. This was my first time seeing their clothes in person and the whole presentation was super chic and gorgeous. There were bright shades of orange, pink, and purple, which really popped in the golden venue. The presentation took place in the Boom Boom Room on the 18th floor of The Standard Hotel. It had beautiful views, a unique bar in the center, and it was right at golden hour so the whole room seemed to fill with a bronzy warmth.
The models were pretty racially diverse, but there was a lack of darker skin tones. There were no plus models.
Gita Omri SS23 Runway Show
Gita Omri is an Israeli-American designer based in New York and this was her debut runway show. The clothing felt like it had a business casual aesthetic. Although most of the items didn’t fit my personal style, she did do something that no other runway show did. Every single look was presented on both a size 4 and a size 20 model. They walked the runway at the same time, showing that fashion has no size. I loved the concept and the effort she put in to being truly diverse.
Dennis Basso SS23 Runway Show
Dennis Basso is a NYC-based luxury fashion brand. This show took place in the Grand Ballroom of The Pierre Hotel. There were some big name celebrities there like Kris Jenner and Martha Stewart. Although I didn’t have as great of a view at this show, the clothing was very elegant and pretty. It felt like something a royal would wear. I loved the details and different textures used, including fur, feathers, silk, and beading.
There was at least one dark skinned model, but diversity was still lacking. Again, there were no plus models.
Pamella Roland SS23 Runway Show
Pamella Roland is an American fashion designer and her brand of the same name is an evening wear line. The brand was founded in 2002, so this show marked its 20th anniversary. The show was beautiful and the runway featured a flower wall and light posts that made you feel like the models were walking around Central Park on a spring evening. The gowns were stunning with a wide range of details from impressive embellishments to dramatic tulle moments. I honestly loved every piece that came down the runway. They felt youthful and fun, but still chic and sophisticated.
The models were racially diverse, but sadly there were no plus models.
Kevan Hall SS23 Runway Show
Kevan Hall has become a show I look forward to every season. I’m always excited to support a Black designer from Detroit and the fact that his collections are always so cohesive and beautifully done is the cherry on top. The “Hotelito” collection, inspired by the town of Todos Santos, Mexico, was vibrant and airy. The venue for the runway show was covered in white walls, floors, and drapery — which provided an excellent backdrop for the bright blue, pink, and yellow garments. The collection felt very wearable for women, with pieces suitable for professional settings, formal occasions, and even vacation.
As a person of color himself, his shows are always racially diverse and I love that they also have age diversity! However, I would love to see him include some plus models.
Selkie SS23 Runway Show
Selkie was my favorite show of the season. I ended up getting an invite at the last minute and I’m so glad I was able to attend! The magical, unicorn-themed collection was very in line with the brand’s typical aesthetic. There were plenty of ruffles, babydoll dresses, and pastel colors. The venue was a Brooklyn warehouse transformed into a tulle-draped castle. There was even a backyard area where attendees could get their outfit shots in. This show also had one of the largest fan bases I’ve witnessed at a NYFW runway. SO many attendees were wearing Selkie and those who weren’t (myself including) put in the effort to look “on theme.” The overall vibe of this show felt much more inclusive and positive as a whole.
The show was very diverse in both race and size.
The Blonds SS23 Runway Show
The Blonds was one of the biggest, flashiest runway shows I’ve attended in a long time. The NYC-based luxury apparel brand is known for being both fueled and inspired by the entertainment industry. So it was only right that Cassie and Nikita Dragun walked the runway and Saucy Santana performed. It was upbeat sexy, and glitzy, like a night out at a glamorous underground club. The clothing featured structured silhouettes, chains, bling, metallics, and a lot of gold.
The show featured both women and men on the runway, including well-known faces in the LGBTQ+ community. It was racially diverse and although some of the models had some curves, there were no plus models included. I would love to see a more intentional inclusion of bigger bodies, especially for a brand that is already pushing boundaries in so many other ways.
READ THIS: My NYFW SS23 Outfits
